What’s new in Orlando BBQ? A Memorial Day weekend roundup

“Sometimes we sell more pie than sandwiches,” says Matt Hinckley of Boxer & Clover , taking a minute or 10 to celebrate the talents of their creator, Crystal Cullison, a pastry chef with nearly 20 years of experience (and who also happens to be his wife).

Indeed, running a restaurant concept — let alone running three; Hinckley’s also got his Netflix-featured eponymous food stall and the still-new Mid Drive Dive fires to stoke — often becomes a family affair. In addition to Cullison’s popular Dutch apple, banana cream and pecan pie contributions, among others, she sometimes works the counter with their one-year-old son, Emrys, strapped to her hip.

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The family’s belief in this slightly-less-fancy installment, however, is seemingly matched by fans old and new, who come in to sample what Hinckley calls “backyard barbecue,” in that it pulls from a range of famed regional styles, “but really it’s just what I’d serve you if you came over to my house.”

Brisket, smoked on average between 10-12 hours depending on size, wasn’t a surprise hit (c’mon, you know when your food’s good), but items like the smoked chicken thighs, which Hinckley almost didn’t put on the menu, have been flying, or perhaps running, out the door.

Boxer & Clover was a no-brainer for Hinckley, whose been doing things like smoked pastrami and turkey drumsticks for Fancy Meats for quite some time and whenever the smoker was out, interest was high.

“People would literally walk by and say, ‘Hey, where do I buy whatever’s in that?'” he says, chuckling. “They didn’t even care what it was. It just arrested people in their tracks.”

After some discussion with East End Market owner John Rife and the departure of longtime neighbors Farm & Haus to their new Winter Park location, there was space to test things out.

Right now, they’re in month two of a six-month stint before the decision of whether to stay put or step out into an off-site brick-and-mortar will be made, but that means there are four more for you to haul a four-meat combo platter out into the courtyard and kill yourself softly, as the song goes.

I recommend marking out a day on which you have no place to be afterward, because you’re going to want to sleep this one off.

Tender pulled pork and ribs sit alongside the aforementioned brisket and thighs, and while there’s no Texas toast or mac that usually deals the death blow to any level of post-‘cue productivity (slaw and pickled veggies are the safest bet), there’s still a nice, chunky potato salad, as well as a killer savory version of cowboy beans, laden with hunks of burnt ends or leftover hunks of rib meat, that I’d classify as “don’t miss.”

And, of course, then you’ve got those pies to contend with.

Save room in your belly, but also your fridge. There’s a good chance you’re bringing some of this home.

On special for Memorial Day weekend, smoked elk sausages made in-house. They’re open for dine-in and take-out on Saturday and Sunday. If you’re looking for Monday food, buy early and take it home to reheat.

Boxer & Clover: Located inside East End Market, 2401 Corrine Drive in Orlando, boxerandclover.com

Mohawk Smokehouse

When Tyler Brunache of Smokemade Meats throws out a recommendation, I pay attention, and when you run into yet another Orlando chef — in this case, The Pass Kitchen’s Guillermo Herrera — in line, the interest deepens. Of course, by this time, I’d already gotten eyes on the prize(s), which beneath the pop-up tent on this night included ribs, brisket, pulled pork and what ended up being the juiciest turkey breast I’ve sampled from any pit master, I came back outside to introduce myself to Tyler Evans, the man behind the brand.

Evans is Orlando through and through. Born here and raised in Orlando’s Dommerich neighborhood, he married his Winter Park High School sweetheart, Sarah, worked at 4 Rivers Smokehouse while attending UCF and, five years after taking a corporate gig at Tesla, struck out on the entrepreneurial trail and founded Mohawk, named for the street he still lives on, in 2022.

“I’ve been cooking my entire life,” says Evans, whose fond memories of childhood include helping his Grandma Rose cook her finest Italian specialties. “I’ve carried those values forward as I developed my love for craft barbecue.”

Mohawk started out serving folks at the Maitland Farmers Market and Maitland Getdown events and the following, says Evans, grew from there. Forward/Slash is a regular in their rotation — the fans who showed up for Porsche night seemed as sated as the folks sipping cocktails inside. You’ll also find them at local breweries, including Hourglass and Tactical in Sanford. This week marks their second appearance at the Milk District’s Tasty Takeover.

Evans’ method — “One hundred percent wood and all live fire, I’ve always been a bit of a pyro,” he jokes — is one that he develops with every single cook. “Learning the craft of using fire, maintaining the temperature, takes failing quite a bit. I wanted to challenge myself … this is the scariest thing I’ve ever done, but it’s also the most rewarding thing I’ve ever done.”

Mohawk crafts with the influence of many styles. Which meat is best? That’s subjective, of course. I vote for sampling, always. Opt in on the mac and cheese for sure.

Mohawk will be at Forward/Slash on May 24 if you want to sample them alongside some superior sips. For the schedule moving forward, follow them on social media.

Mohawk Smokehouse: mohawksmokehouse.com ; facebook.com/MohawkSmokehouse ; instagram.com/mohawksmokehouse

Find me on Facebook, TikTok, Twitter or Instagram @amydroo or on the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie . Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com , For more foodie fun, join the Let’s Eat, Orlando Facebook group .