Tuscaloosa business turns something old into something new

Sara Cox learned sewing at her grandmother's knee.

The 2011 University of Alabama graduate has turned a childhood passion into a career and, perhaps, a life mission. Cox left a career in the fashion industry a year and a half ago to establish her own Tuscaloosa business, taking a road less traveled to follow her passion that was nurtured by her grandmother.

"When I was 7 years old, she taught me how to sew. She had a huge fabric collection but, of course, I wasn't allowed to use those, so she gave me old towels and her scraps and remnants. It really translates to what I'm doing now. I learned how to sew, and I just never looked back, " Cox said.

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"My company is B More and the idea behind it is that everything in this world can be more than it previously was. I focus on sustainable manufacturing of clothing using secondhand, existing textiles. You are taking something that is existing and turning it into something else," Cox said.

The practice is known as upcycling. She uses materials she finds in estate sales, at thrift stores, and excess stock from textile manufacturers to make new clothing. It is a skill she has and one she hopes to spread across West Alabama and beyond.

"The secondhand apparel market is growing rapidly via resale and repair programs. B More is stepping in to fill this niche that is rapidly growing. I want to do it here in Alabama which is the really cool thing about it," Cox said.

The 35-year-old fashion designer said larger markets like New York and Los Angeles are dabbling in upcycling, but she wants to work her craft in Alabama. Cox, a native of Nashville, graduated from UA with a degree in Clothing, Apparel, and Textile Design with an emphasis on design and production.

"I think we have all the resources here that we could turn this into something really big and serve other brands and not just me making stuff," Cox said. She recently picked up a contract to supply upcycled clothing to Basic, a Birmingham boutique store.

The concept of upcycling is part of the circular apparel market.

The basic concept behind the term is that there is enough clothing already in the market. At the lowest end of the circular market are low-quality fibers, such as washcloths, which would be shredded and used to create products like insulation, or what Cox terms an end use. Other clothing would be repaired or remade into wearable or new products.

The thrift store is part of the circular apparel industry, as are online websites where used products of all kinds are resold.

"There is actually enough clothing in the world to outfit the next four generations," Cox said. "It's a huge problem and 85% of the clothing we wear just gets sent to the landfill."

Cox said the landfill is only a part of the negative environmental impact the clothing industry has. She said the fashion and textile industry is the third-largest polluter in the world. Due in part to this impact on the environment, Cox said Congress recently established a Slow Fashion Caucus to focus on sustainability in apparel.

"I don't want to use the word groundbreaking, but it's on the forefront of something that is going to be impactful for the next several decades," Cox said. "I kind of realized how much was out there already, and I wanted to pivot my career into being a leader in that space and using my experience in helping other designers that are here in Alabama learn the trade of clothing making and production."

Cox said Alabama, Auburn and Mississippi State universities all have excellent fashion and textile education programs and she hopes to help young designers from those schools, especially those who do not wish to move to New York or Los Angeles but are still talented designers.

Cox's husband, Wes, grew up in Pickens County. They have a 5-year-old son, Clayton. On visits to see his family, Wes would point out all the businesses that used to be there but had closed. It became obvious that industry, businesses and associated jobs had left the area. Seeing all the closed stores gave Cox a new idea.

"My goal in the immediate future is to have a mobile sewing lab so I can be decentralized. I can go out into the Black Belt area to host regular workshops, teaching people how to sew, teaching people the skills that were taught to me and passed down to me. The goal is that as I grow my business, I am able to support hiring people and having employees in these areas," Cox said.

The circular fashion industry faces challenges due to the prominence of established clothing makers who are continually bringing out the newest trends. Part of Cox's ambition to reach rural markets, where there is a higher level of poverty. That way, she can help provide excellent fashion to people who don't have the resources to purchase the latest clothing from the big-name designers.

"There are some people who are always going to want that (the newest fashion from major designers) and maybe they aren't a good fit. What is intrinsically valuable to anyone who upcycles is that everything is unique and one-of-a-kind. I think there is an equally powerful group of people who like that idea, that I am going to have a dress or something that no one else is going to have," Cox said.

Cox is also fighting the perception that upcycled clothing is somehow inferior to new clothing.

"I think a lot of people think that if something is upcycled, it has a certain look to it or it is inferior or is not as cool. I really want to show designers, or even people who are sitting at home who want to start sewing, you can actually take something and turn it into something that is like it is on the runway," Cox said, gesturing to her own clothing. Her skirt is upcycled from a lace curtain and her denim vest was purchased from a thrift store.

"I think there are a lot of people out there who are finding they can express their personality by wearing something that is different to what everyone else is wearing," Cox said.

Reach Gary Cosby Jr. at gary.cosby@tuscaloosanews.com.

This article originally appeared on The Tuscaloosa News: Tuscaloosa business turns something old into something new