Gelso & Grand

NYCReview

7.5

WebsiteDirectionsInstagramPhone

$$$$Perfect For:Casual DinnersBig Groups

Gelso & Grand is a good option for larger groups and hungry families without firm dinner plans on the corner of Mulberry and Grand. (Gelso is Italian for “mulberry”—see what they did there?) This spacious Italian restaurant makes great use of its prime Little Italy location, with big windows that open onto the street, and outdoor seating entwined with white-flowered branches—and it delivers solid if not memorable food.

The restaurant opened in 2015, and—almost as if it were self-conscious about being a recent arrival to an historic neighborhood—the unifying theme behind the decor seems to be “old.” You might be seated at a table with a cast-iron sewing machine pedal as its base, or find yourself playing I Spy with the eclectic assortment of antique-ish objects on display above the bar, including vintage suitcases, a globe, and an enormous jug full of corks.

Kids might also enjoy playing in the photo booth by the restrooms downstairs. And if you’re in a rush, with no time for games, the staff will accommodate you—our food came out about five minutes after we ordered. If you’re struggling to decide which carb to prioritize here, we’d generally steer you towards pizza over pasta.

Food Rundown

Pistachio Pesto

The homemade pasta itself is good, and the sauce smells great, but the flavor is muted. This dish is a generous sprinkle of salt (and maybe a squeeze of lemon) away from being something we’d order again.

Inferno Pizza

When our server warned us that this pizza was genuinely spicy, we had to admit we didn’t believe her. How often is “spicy” actually spicy, especially at a family-friendly spot like this? But she was right: Streaked bright red with chili oil, the Inferno is impressively hot, and the crust is pleasantly puffy.

NONE

1-5

6s

7s

8s

9s

Pretty good: You’ll likely be satisfied by a meal here, especially for a specific situation. These are handy back-up restaurants and beloved local spots.